The quintessential dress watch should encompass a range of non-negotiable variables. Understated and refined, on a leather strap with only a handful of exceptions, elegant, classical in design and in execution, and pertaining to the notion that it should absolutely not draw more attention than that of a quick glance.
Perhaps another variable should be that the dress watch should be encased in some kind of precious metal, be it in almost any shade of gold, or platinum. The gold dress watch is, in its own right, an avenue many collectors will eventually embark upon as they expand their collection, and with many a consideration out there you would be best to avoid being steered in the wrong direction.
For that I have 9 of the best gold dress watch that I came across during my proverbial travels, ranging from a simple Blancpain, to a decorated Omega and a complicated Breguet.
Breguet Classique Power Reserve 7137BA
Brand: Breguet
Model: Classique Power Reserve
Reference: 7137BA/11/9V6
Case: 39mm x 8.65mm
Case Material: Yellow gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 502.3 DR1
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 45 hours
The Breguet Classique Power Reserve 7137BA presents as the most complicated gold dress watch on this list. It's a beautiful combination of dial textures and finishings, coupled with some mechanical complexity encased in a lovely proportioned case. As far as gold dress watches go, the Breguet Classique Power Reserve 7137BA is by far one of the finest, albeit it one of the most expensive.
Omega Constellation Globemaster
Brand: Omega
Model: Constellation Globemaster
Reference: 130.53.39.21.02.001
Case: 39mm x 12.60mm
Case Material: Sedna™ gold
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Omega 8901
Frequency: 3.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 hours
From its intriguing dial to the pie-pan bezel, the Omega Constellation Globemaster certainly marches to the beat of its own drum. Soft colours work well in the Constellation Globemaster's favour, and as far as gold dress watches go, this is perhaps one of the few that can wear a few hats and be worn comfortably as something to accompany a semi-casual outfit.
Breitling Transocean Day Date
Brand: Breitling
Model: Transocean Day Date
Reference: R45310
Case: 43mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 45
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours
The Breitling Transocean Day Date presents as an interesting package. Proportions are great. There is a lovely balance to the dial and the case. The practicality of having a day-date indicator is a welcoming one. A far cry from the ultra classical dress watch, the Breitling Transocean Day Date is a modern take on what the quote-unquote traditional dress watch should be.
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours
Brand: Blancpain
Model: Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours
Reference: 6639A-3631-55B
Case: 42mm x 13.03mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 6639
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 192 hours
The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours is another rather complicated take on the gold dress watch, but it's one whose inclusion I felt was more than justified. It's a sophisticated affair, full of refinement and restraint. Blancpain flexing its classical watchmaking might in more ways than one here.
Cartier Drive de Cartier
Brand: Cartier
Model: Drive de Cartier
Reference: WGNM0005
Case: 41mm x 12.63mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: 1904 FU MC
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 48 hours
The cushion-cased Cartier Drive de Cartier is a lovely bit of kit that marries the worlds of haute couture with haute horlogerie. From the asymmetrical dial to the shape of the case and that brilliant little crown, the Cartier Drive de Cartier is perhaps the most avant garde choice in this list, but it by far and away holds its own merit as a very considerable gold dress watch for yoour collection.
Blancpain Villeret 8 Jours
Brand: Blancpain
Model: Villeret 8 Jours
Reference: 6630-3631-55B
Case: 42mm x 11.25mm
Case Material: Red gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 1335
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 192 hours
The Blancpain Villeret 8 Jours is a sleek expression of what is the traditional gold dress watch. The slender leaf shaped hands, the Roman numerals, the discreet date window, the flush crown. It all works towards a very restrained, very well thought out dress watch.
Cartier Tank MC
Brand: Cartier
Model: Tank MC
Reference: W5330001
Case: 34.30mm x 9.50mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: 1904-PS MC
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 48 hours
The bold Cartier Tank MC is a marvellous little piece that brings to the fore an edgy, almost obscure take on the modern gold dress watch. Architecturally incredible, the Cartier Tank MC has distinguishable lines and sloping edges that lend themselves to the brilliant minds behind the Tank and its borderline rebellious approach to modern horology.
Cartier Ballon Blue De Cartier
Brand: Cartier
Model: Ballon Blue De Cartier
Reference: W6900651
Case: 42.10mm x 13mm
Case Material: Pink gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 049
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours
As far as gold dress watches go, the Cartier Ballon Blue De Cartier is perhaps the most feminine looking piece in this list. The Cartier Ballon Blue De Cartier is a beautiful take on classical dress watchmaking, imbuing heritage, charisma and charm into one very lovely little bit of kit.
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra-Thin
Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Jules Audemars Ultra Thin
Reference: 15180OR.OO.A088CR.01
Case: 41mm x 6.70mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Water Resistance: 20m
Movement: Calibre 2120
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 40 hours
As soon as I saw the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra-Thin I knew I had to include it in this list. Adjectives aside, the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra-Thin is the perennial example of the traditional dress watch in my honest and humble opinion. Easy on the eye, meticulous detailing and beautiful proportions make the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Extra-Thin one of the finest examples of a gold dress watch.
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