The dust has settled on the unveiling of Patek Philippe's first collection in 25 years, but the narrative behind the Cubitus is all but ended. The week prior to its release was perhaps the most lively, with social media, news outlets and TikTok atwitter with chatter, especially when the apparent leak showed something the world really didn't see coming.
Then the news officially broke, and on October 17 of this year, Patek Philippe delivered its Cubitus collection, causing a stir that was tantamount to a tear in the fabric of time. Literally. I've been embroiled in the world of watches for the better part of a decade, and I've never seen such a wave of contempt, disdain, disappointment, angst, anger and legitimate fury from a seemingly placid, passive and well-educated bunch of people. I'm talking pure emotion. Wild, wild scenes.
So, this is a two-part article. The first is the breakdown of the Cubitus and the second is a list of considerable alternatives. I've not seen the Cubitus in the metal yet -- one of the many horologically-relevant obstacles of living in Australia, but when I do I will give a more subjective overview of the collection -- so I will be breaking it down from the perspective of neutrality. Very Swiss like.
The Patek Philippe Cubitus. Three references, the 5822P, the 5821/1AR and the 5821/1A. The 5822P introduces a fairly familiar aesthetic from the 5712, albeit with an added date window. The 5821/1AR brings back the two-tone goodness we've all loved and missed from the 5980/1AR, while the 5821/1A brought back the much loved and super rare green dial from the 5711/1A-014. From the get go and at the very least from the perspective of rarity and exclusivity, these three new references are a sort of nod to at least two of Patek Philippe's more desirable (and discontinued) models. The third is an oddball, but it's perhaps the most exciting of the three, at the least from a material and complication position -- that would be the 5822P.
Now, onto the shape. No one -- and I mean no one -- could have predicted Patek Philippe would go down the route of making a square watch. The Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Aquanaut. It seemed, and still does seem, a weird choice, but often the path less taken is the path to success. Or glory. Or something like that. Whatever, it's a weird way to go. Going off of images alone, the case looks really well finished. Vertical brushing, polished surfaces, a really nice marriage of finishing techniques that you would entirely expect from a maison at the level that Patek is. It's angular, but not. In that you can see the clear definition between the sides of the case and the angles, but Patek doing what Patek does best is blend those lines to create a sense of harmony. In other words, it's a well finished, well put together case that definitely took a fair amount of time to design, engineer, machine and create.
The bracelets of the 5821/1AR and the 5821/1A feature polished centre links and look basically the same as the Nautilus'. Patek's tact here was "if it ain't broke don't fix it", and while I would be remiss to say I wouldn't have appreciated a new bracelet, there really isn't anything wrong with recycling something that is tried and true. At least they didn't use the 5167/1A's bracelet. Could you imagine... The 5822P has a navy blue composite material strap, perhaps jumping on the bandwagon of the 5980/60G's. But from the images, it looks really nice, and it does shave off a decent chunk off the price tag, too.
As for the dials, like the cases and the bracelets, there really isn't anything to complain about. Horizontally embossed (which extends to the rotors' and micro-rotors' pattern, the dials follow suit with what Patek has done with the Nautilus. Again, nothing wrong with that but perhaps some more thought into creating something different for the Cubitus would have been nice. And I'm sure appreciated by the watchfam, at the very least.
Something else that really drove people nuts were the movements. Let's clear this up, and quickly. The 5821/1AR and the 5821/1A are powered by the calibre 26-330 S C. This is a new calibre based off of the 26-330 which was introduced in 2019. The difference? It has a stop-seconds feature, where if you pull out the crown the seconds hack. Nifty. The 5822P is powered by the calibre 240 PS CI J LU. Yes, this is derived from the calibre 240 (like the one used in the 5712), albeit with a few tweaks. This new calibre has an instantaneous grand date, six new patents (including energy conservation for the grand date, a tangential brake, a dual-functioning spring, a flexible plate, a flexible connector and a new positioning system).
Size. This one was a biggie within the watch community. Here we were all expecting something small and slim. Patek went the other way. The 5821/1AR and the 5821/1A measure 45mm x 8.30mm, while the 5822P measures 45mm x 9.60mm. What we need to think about here is why are these so much bigger than expected? Well, we're talking about a collection that Patek will push for at least the next decade. The current trend is for small watches. So, logic states that Patek is clearly looking to the future. Well into the future.
Now, onto pricing. And this one shocked many. The 5822P costs USD88,378. The 5821/1AR costs USD61,275. And the 5821/1A costs USD41,243. These were heralded as Patek's new entry level pieces, in particular the all-steel Cubitus. But this is not entry level pricing. Far from it. A mid-30 range entry point would have been better, in my opinion. Even a high 20 for the steel model.
Again, I'm yet to see the watch so take what I say with a grain of salt. I'm more curious than anything. I think the whys have been answered. Why the Cubitus, why the shape. The what has also been answered. What's next. We know more references are on their way. Complications, precious metals, gem- and diamond-set models, too. When, well in typical Patek fashion we can probably expect to see at least one new Cubitus reference in 2026, and perhaps one next year if we're lucky. With those pressing questions basically answered by the writing on the wall, my curiosity goes straight to the tangible in question -- I want to see these watches in the metal.
And I will, soon.
In the mean time, and in the name of all good things surrounding the Patek Philippe Cubitus, here are some of the finest alternatives out there.
Hope you enjoy the read!
Audemars Piguet [Re]Master Selfwinding
The equally as polarising Audemars Piguet [Re]Master Selfwinding may seem an odd choice to compare to the Cubitus, but from the perspective of something avant garde, something a little out of left field and something unlike anything either maison has done (or has been doing in a number of years), it seemed a logical comparative choice.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds. Its cushion-style case, seamlessly integrated bracelet and beautifully textured dial all works to create an innate creation that meshes the worlds of steampunk, modernity and everything in between. A must-see in the metal.
Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor
A more conservative approach than Moser's Streamliner Small Seconds, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor is also close to double its price. But it offers a higher degree of finishing and that tangible quality that all Laurent Ferrier watches seem to have.
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph
The thinking-man's choice, TAG Heuer's Monaco Chronograph offers lots of bang-for-your-buck value, and is inherently one of the most iconic and important watches (and cult-figures, might I add), ever made.
Cartier Santos de Cartier
There has been many a comparison made between the Cartier Santos de Cartier and the Cubitus. The overarching preference has been the classic Santos, and with its clean lines, impeccable finishing and distinct look, it's easy to see why.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo
Perhaps the most logical choice, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a blend of architecture, sharp lines and angles, put together in one of the thinnest, most wearable packages around. Pricing is a far cry of what Patek is asking for its entry level Cubitus, which makes the Octo Finissimo that much more appealing.
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
Funk town called and the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date answered. In this super poppy vibe, it's easy to see why it may have been overlooked as a plausible Cubitus alternative. But look beyond the striking dial and what you have is a serious little bit of kit that invariably offers a lot of qualities that you might have wanted to see in the Cubitus.
Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart
The budget-friendly Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart boasts a high-tech ceramic case, some pretty sound openworking and a very distinct yet subtle aesthetic. Much like the Cubitus. Minus the ceramic and openworking. And the price. Maybe not the most obvious alternative, but certainly one for those looking to dip their toe into a square-shaped watch since seeing the Cubitus.
Bell & Ross BR-05 Chrono Blue Steel
Bell & Ross' BR-05 Chrono Blue Steel is an interesting alternative in that it offers a lot of similar design cues that the Cubitus does, albeit in a much more accessible price bracket.
Hermès H08
Last, but certainly not least, is the Hermès H08. Rather cool, the H08 is something a little against the grain from Hermès, and while its appeal took some time to grab hold of the watch community, it's now well and truly endowed as one of the nicer looking square-shaped watches.
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