Welcome to my latest segment aptly named One Brand Watch Collecting. As the name implies, I've been perusing the collections of almost every watch brand out there, putting together a viable list watch manufacturers that could fit the bill as being that elusive one-brand watch collection maison. With over 150 watch brands out there, not including a lot of independents and micro-brands, it was a trying task and it's one that I've had a lot of fun with. But with great fun comes great responsibility. Isn't that how the saying goes?
The way I've structured it is I'll be releasing a weekly edition of this new segment starting from A for A. Lange & Söhne and finishing at Z for Zenith, covering most brands in between throughout the course.
Regardless, I had to implement some type of restrictive practice here so I wouldn't go overboard with the plethora of options out there. What I've done is create four distinct categories that cover all bases of watch collecting, which are:
The Daily
The Dress
The Weekender
The Wildcard
These categories are diverse enough to cater for a decent collection all the while giving that collection the chance to experience the depth and breadth of said watch brand. The daily is just that, the piece you would wear every day like to work, the gym and the like. Think of it as your beater. The dress watch is the one you would wear to a formal event like a wedding or something requiring you to dress up. The weekender is your go to for those two days of bliss. And the wildcard is the fun watch, the one that likely costs the most but it's the one that gives you the most joy and excitement to wear. There aren't any budgetary restrictions per se, but I tried to keep it somewhat realistic and steered away from the ultra-expensive models, the super exclusive limited editions and the uber-complicated models.
Hope you enjoy this new segment! And stay tuned for the next lot of watches from Breguet, Breitling and Bulgari.
A. Lange & Söhne
The Odysseus was the obvious choice here. It comes in white gold or titanium, along with a chronograph model, but I went for the stainless steel and blue dial variant (reference 363.179). The integrated bracelet, the digital display, the typical Lange stylised look -- it all works for me as the easiest choice out of the four segments.
I had to go with the Lange 1 for the dress watch. I contemplated the Saxonia Thin being the prime choice, but when it comes to iconicity and brand identity, the Lange 1 is the maison's staple. With that beautiful asymmetrical dial, finer than fine finishing and super discreet proportions, the Lange 1 was my pick.
Now I could have a bit of fun. The Datograph Up/Down is the one that I gravitated towards the most. It's on the larger side of things, and with respect to its case material it's quite hefty. However, pair it with a fabric or even coloured rubber strap and what you have is a seriously fun bit of kit for the weekend. Guaranteed this will turn into your daily, too.
Picking a wildcard piece from Lange's insane collection of watches was a toughie. But I had to go with the Zeitwerk. With its digital-stylised display, ridiculously beautiful finishing and air of non chalence, it was the pick out of the lot for me. Available in a few different materials and with a few added complications, I went the conventional route but with a touch of luxury, opting for that gorgeous pink gold case.
Audemars Piguet
I took the road well traveled for the the daily Audemars Piguet option with the Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin. It's thin, it's subtle, it wears beautifully and it pairs with almost anything. Sophisticated, refined and brimming with everything that is the Royal Oak, this was the obvious choice.
I could have gone Royal Oak for the dress watch, but as they say, variety is the spice of life. So here is perhaps the most beautiful Code 11.59 reference. Pairing a white gold case with a black onyx dial and divvied up with those brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers makes for a supremely beautiful dress watch. You might need to change the strap depending on how formal the event is, though.
The Royal Oak Offshore was made for the weekend. And in saying that, there were too many options for me to choose from. Paralysis by analysis. With the weekender option, I went with the very cool khaki green Royal Oak Offshore Diver, but take my pick with a grain of salt. I sat and stared at that collection for way too long and any model would be well befitting of this category.
Clad in pink gold and featuring a beautiful openworked dial, the Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Openworked was always going to be the wildcard for me. Wonderfully understated proportions, and measuring 39mm by 8.10mm it fits the bill for me beautifully. It's loud, but it's not. It's ostentatious, but it's not. Quietly brilliant.
Blancpain
For the Blancpain daily option, I have to admit I found it super difficult. As much as I like the original Fifty Fathoms look, the more contemporary aesthetic of the Bathyscaphe appeals to me just that little bit more. I chose the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe reference 5000 0130 B52A for a few reasons. It's ceramic, it's fairly subtle and it just looks like one badass daily drivier.
Blancpain have a plethora of dress watches, some simple, and some super complicated. I went the simple route with the Villeret Ultraplate in steel with a white dial. Classic looks, fairly contemporary proportions and beautiful finishing throughout. What more do you want in a dress watch?
I had to go complicated for the weekender option. And it had to be in ceramic again. And still within the Bathyscaphe lineage. The Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune is one cool customer. I love the sunburst blue gradient dial, the touches of red, the darkness of that ceramic case and the deep blue NATO strap. A solid all-rounder for a weekend of fun, adventure and relaxation.
The wildcard was going to be a high horology complication like a tourbillon, but only just recently was the Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback in red gold released, meaning it jump straight to the top of the wildcard list. Bathyscaphe again, red gold, blue dial and an in-house chronograph. The wildest of wildcards.
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