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One Brand Watch Collecting: Breguet, Breitling and Bulgari



If you hadn't already checked out the first instalment in my new series where I delve into the deep catalogues of watch brands to see if you can truly build a collection of timepieces around a single watchmaker, be sure to check out the first edition. In that first write up, I explain the structure of this series so be sure to follow this link to get up to speed if you haven't already.


As a quick recap, the structure revolves around four core categories that cover a daily wearer, a dress watch, a weekender go-to as well as the wildcard, the kind of watch you really get excited over.



I featured A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet and Blancpain in the introductory article which, I must say, was not much of a challenge, with each brand offering a decent breadth of watches to cover each category several times over.


This time is a bit more of a challenge, with Breguet's collection diversity really stumping me (Paralysis by analysis...), Breitling doing much the same and Bulgari really leaving my hands tied when it came to variety. But you can't say I didn't try!


Next up is Cartier, Chopard and Czapek. Stay tuned and enjoy.



Breguet








The Breguet Type XX Chronographe carries its own as a super discreet very neat bit of kit. Very unassuming a atypical of your usual Breguet timepiece, the Type XX Chronographe is an easy wearing piece that you can dress up or down without too much hassle



You're spoilt for choice when it comes to dress watches from Breguet, but I went with the textural delight that is the Classique 5140BB/12/9W6. Just beautiful.




I couldn't think of any piece more appropriate for the weekend than the rubber-strapped Marine Tourbillon 5577PT/Y2/5WV. I mean, a tourbillon on a rubber strap. This thing was made for the weekend!




Where else would I have gone for Breguet's wildcard than something openworked. And what better place to be than the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597BB/GY/9WU. Immense.


Breitling








What better piece to pick than the new all-titanium Breitling Chronomat B01 42. The bracelet, the case, the colours. it all works a treat as a very capable daily wearer.




I found this category the toughest but came out with the Premier B09 Chronograph 40. Its simple white dial is clean and effective, and the addition of a chronograph made it the pick of the lot.




It's big, bold and bright. Perfect for a weekend spent doing what you love and more than capable of handling whatever you and life has to throw at it.




The wildcard had to be a Navitimer of some sorts. And there is no cooler, more authentic Navitimer than the Navitimer 1959 Re-Edition. By far one of the coolest watches made by Breitling, ever.


Bulgari








For Bulgari's daily option I so wanted to go down the route of the Octo Finissimo, but instead I opted for the hyper discreet Octo Roma. An unsung hero of Bulgari's watchmaking catalogue.




The super thing Octo Finissimo was always going to be the number one choice for the dress watch category. It's as good as slipping under a cuff as it is going against the grain of normality in the dress watch world.




The world's thinnest chronograph and GMT, the Octo Finissimo Chrono GMT was the perfect choice for the ultimate weekender watch. Ridiculous proportions, architecturally incredible and mechanical brilliant. With the added bonus of lauding points over your fellow watch collecting pals.




Retrogrades, perpetual calendars, deep blues and paper thin dimensions, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Haute Horlogerie is Bulgari's answer to the wildcard category. I could have gone a bit more complication, but what for?


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