Another week down, another retrospective round up of all the latest notable new watch releases and related stories in the next. Watches Of The Week edition. Last week featured Tudor, Roger Dubuis and Panerai all dropping some serious heat, with Greubel Forsey unveiling its newest high horology work of art.
This week, we have new watches from the likes of De Bethune, Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, Longines and Hermès all being unveiled. My favourite release of the week was definitely a certain little high horology number from Breguet that marries the worlds of truly complicated watchmaking with genuine robustness and real world wearability.
Enjoy the read and have a great week ahead.
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
Brand: Breguet
Model: Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
Reference: 5887PT/92/5WV
Case: 43.90mm X 11.80mm
Case Material: Platinum
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Calibre 581DPE
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Price: AUD433,000
The Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 is the technical flagship of Breguet's Marine collection, housed in a platinum case that highlights its complex Calibre 581DPE movement. This grand complication offers a mesmerizing blend of innovation and artistry, featuring three high complications: a running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon. The equation of time displays the variance between local and solar time, achieved through a cam linked to a feeler that drives the equation lever. It presents two minute hands—one with a luminescent tip for calendar time and the other with a gold-plated ring for solar time—enabling precise, instantaneous reading. The perpetual calendar function, with its anchor-shaped retrograde hand, tracks dates and leap years across a dark background with clear white markings for easy visibility. The tourbillon, first developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, incorporates a titanium cage and silicon balance spring to counteract gravity's effect on accuracy. A blued gauge provides power reserve information for the watch’s 80-hour capacity, while an engraved oscillating weight decorated with a wave pattern wraps around a chiseled depiction of the Royal Louis, symbolizing Breguet’s historical ties to naval navigation. Each timepiece’s exquisite guilloché engraving and hand-finishing transform it into a wearable work of art. The 43.9 mm platinum case, with a "wave" guilloché dial in black, evokes an ocean under moonlight, adorned with four precise hands and Roman numerals set amid luminescent details, creating a timeless blend of functionality and visual poetry.
De Bethune DW5 Al-Amal
Brand: De Bethune
Model: DW5 Al-Amal
Reference: DW5HOB
Case: 47mm x 16mm
Case Material: Titanium
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre DB2144V2
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Price: CHF240,000 (Piece unique)
De Bethune is creating a unique timepiece for the Mavericks of Time exhibition, organized by Ahmed Sediqqi & Sons at the Museum of the Future in Dubai on November 9 and 10. This exhibition celebrates the boldness and creativity of independent watchmaking, and De Bethune is contributing a special "time capsule" — a symbol of hope for future generations. The timepiece chosen for this event is the DW5, a futuristic and aerodynamic model first introduced in 2022. Its design features a sleek, asymmetrical case, and it represents the brand’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of both form and function. The DW5 embodies De Bethune's iconic deltoid shape, first seen in their Dream Watch collection, blending artistic and technical innovation. The timepiece, named DW5 Al-Amal, draws inspiration from the Museum’s illuminated Arabic calligraphy on its exterior. The case, made of mirror-polished titanium, is engraved with six distinct Arabic calligraphies of the word "Love" — each representing different expressions of the emotion, such as friendship, passion, and faith. These engravings honor the beauty of Arabic calligraphy as an art form, conveying an emotional and universal message. The DW5 Al-Amal reflects De Bethune’s mission to combine watchmaking with cultural, philosophical, and artistic ideas. The Dream Watch collection, known for its avant-garde designs, continues to push the boundaries of horology, blending centuries-old traditions with contemporary technological innovations.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
Brand: Ulysse Nardin
Model: Diver Net Vendée Globe
Reference: 1183-170LE-2A-VG/0x
Case: 44mm x 14.81mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Water Resistance: 300m
Movement: Calibre UN-118
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Price: CHF13,500 (Limited to 300 pieces)
Ulysse Nardin proudly presents the Diver NET Vendée Globe, the most sustainable watch the esteemed Swiss maison has ever crafted, coinciding with the 10th edition of the world's largest solo, non-stop, unassisted round-the-world sailing race. Celebrating its heritage of precision since 1846 and its role as Official Timekeeper for the Vendée Globe, this limited-edition timepiece of only 300 pieces embodies the spirit of the race and Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to sustainability. The Diver NET Vendée Globe features a robust 44mm titanium case made from 95% recycled steel, complemented by NyloFoil flanks, lugs, and case back crafted from recycled fishing nets and upcycled carbon fibers. Its silvery-white, sunburst dial adorned with red and blue geometric stars enhances legibility underwater with oversized luminescent hands and a unidirectional rotating bezel filled with Super-LumiNova. Powered by the innovative UN-118 automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve and an upcycled DIAMonSIL escapement, the watch showcases a sapphire display back that reveals the open-worked movement and a map of the Vendée Globe route. Sustainable materials extend to the bezel made from CarbonFoil and the straps, which include a red fabric option from recycled fishing nets and a grey Nylo® strap. Additional features such as a helium escape valve, screw-down crown with protectors, and compliance with ISO standards for diver’s watches ensure exceptional performance in the harshest conditions. Reflecting the race's challenges and Ulysse Nardin’s dedication to ocean conservation, the Diver NET Vendée Globe merges technical excellence with environmental responsibility, making it a true tribute to the Vendée Globe’s daring sailors and the fragile beauty of our oceans. Available exclusively through Ulysse Nardin’s boutiques and authorized retailers worldwide, this watch not only serves as a high-performance tool for the most extreme maritime adventures but also as a symbol of sustainable innovation in haute horlogerie.
Zenith DEFY Extreme Diver Titanium
Brand: Zenith
Model: DEFY Extreme Diver Titanium
Reference: 95.9600.3620/01.I300
Case: 42.50m x 15.50mm
Case Material: Titanium
Water Resistance: 600m
Movement: El Primero 3620 SC
Frequency: 5 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Price: AUD17,500
Zenith has unveiled the DEFY Extreme Diver with a silvery-white dial, a continuation of the DEFY line’s legacy of robust, high-performance watches designed for extreme environments since 1969. Engineered for durability and functionality, the 42.5mm titanium case has an angular design and features a helium escape valve, a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with grooved edges for enhanced grip, and crown guards that protect the oversized screw-down crown. Rated to 600 meters of water resistance (symbolically 1,969 feet), the watch complies with ISO standards for diver’s watches, including paramagnetism and shock resistance. Its dial, in a sunburst silvery-white, displays Zenith's signature geometric star engraving, oversized luminescent hands, and applied markers with Super-LumiNova in three hues, allowing quick readability in low-light settings. The bright orange accents are a nod to vintage DEFY divers, chosen for underwater visibility. Powered by the El Primero 3620-SC automatic calibre, the watch provides a 60-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire display back, which is rare for diver’s watches. The DEFY Extreme Diver is completed with a titanium three-link bracelet, a black FKM rubber strap, and a recycled fishing-net strap designed for use over wetsuits. Available exclusively through Zenith's boutiques and authorized retailers, this watch merges DEFY’s bold design with technical precision to withstand the harshest elements.
Kari Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry
Brand: Kari Voutilainen
Model: KV201 Reversed Cherry
Reference: -
Case: 39mm
Case Material: Titanium
Water Resistance: -
Movement: Calibre KV20i
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Price: CHF124,800
The Voutilainen KV20i Reversed in Cherry Titanium is a striking new addition to the Swiss watchmaker's lineup, featuring a bold cherry-red outer ring on an intricately openworked dial. Housed in polished titanium with Voutilainen’s signature teardrop lugs, this model showcases the hand-crafted KV20i caliber with a proprietary direct impulse escapement, including two escape wheels for enhanced precision. The intricate movement also emphasizes high durability and performance, offering a 60-hour power reserve. Set on a color-coordinated fabric strap, the cherry-toned theme creates an overall eye-catching and luxurious aesthetic. The KV20i Reversed Cherry Titanium celebrates Voutilainen's devotion to haute horology. Each detail, from the chamfered edges of the movement to the complexity of the escapement, exemplifies an expert blend of art and functionality. The watch is available for CHF 124,800 and is a limited release that appeals to serious collectors and aficionados.
Hermès Arceau Robe Légère
Brand: Hermès
Model: Arceau Robe Légère
Reference: -
Case: 38mm
Case Material: White gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Hermès H1912
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Price: Price on request (Limited to 24 pieces)
Hermès has unveiled a stunning new piece in its iconic Arceau collection: the Arceau Robe Légère, a limited-edition timepiece that combines the brand's equestrian heritage with exceptional craftsmanship. The watch features a striking rearing horse motif on the dial, inspired by a silk scarf designed by French artist Théo de Gueltzl. Known for its commitment to artisanal excellence, Hermès employed its skilled artisans to bring this design to life using the delicate technique of paillonné enamelling. The horse on the dial appears as though embroidered, with its coat adorned in intricate silver flowers and leaves. This effect is achieved by applying thin slivers of silver leaf to a dark blue enamel base, a process that requires meticulous attention to detail. Using a microscope, artisans carefully position these silver flakes, then cover them with layers of translucent enamel before firing the piece in a kiln multiple times to achieve a shimmering, textured finish. The 38mm white gold case of the Arceau Robe Légère is enhanced by 71 brilliant-cut diamonds set around the bezel, adding a touch of luxury to the design. The case features the signature stirrup-shaped lugs, a design element created by Henri d'Origny in 1978 that ties the watch to Hermès' origins as a maker of saddles and equestrian gear. On the back of the watch, a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the beautifully decorated Hermès H1912 calibre, an automatic movement developed by Vaucher in Fleurier, a company in which Hermès has held a 25% stake since 2006. The movement is further embellished with Hermès' signature "H" motifs on the bridges and rotor, emphasizing the Maison’s commitment to luxury. The Arceau Robe Légère comes with a matching Abysse Bleu alligator leather strap, perfectly complementing the dark blue enamel of the dial. The strap is attached to the case via the same stirrup-shaped lugs, reinforcing the equestrian theme of the design.
Longines Conquest Chrono Ski Edition
Brand: Longines
Model: Conquest Chrono Ski Edition
Reference: L3.836.4.52.9
Case: 42mm x 14.30mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Calibre L898.5
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 59 hours
Price: €4,500 (Limited to 2,025 pieces)
Longines has launched a special edition of its Conquest Chronograph to celebrate the 48th FIS Alpine Ski World Championship in Saalbach, Austria. This limited edition, known as the Conquest Chrono Ski Edition, honors Longines’ role as the official timekeeper for the International Ski Federation (FIS) and is the same model worn by skier Marco Odermatt. While it is based on the updated Conquest Chronograph released in 2023, this version features unique design enhancements that cater to sports enthusiasts. The watch is housed in a 42mm stainless steel case, offering 100m water resistance. It includes a black ceramic tachymeter bezel and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Notably, the solid caseback is engraved with an image of an alpine skier and commemorative text, marking it as a limited edition (one of only 2,025 pieces).The dial is anthracite with a vertical satin finish, distinguished by recessed sub-dials (small seconds at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph counter at 6, and a 30-minute counter at 9) that have a black, snailed texture. The hour and minute hands are polished and feature luminous stripes, while the chronograph hands are bright red, adding a vibrant contrast to the design. Super-LumiNova is used on the indices and hands for improved visibility. Inside, the Conquest Chrono Ski Edition is powered by the Longines L898.5 automatic calibre, which is an upgraded version of the ETA 2892 movement. It features a silicon balance spring, a 59-hour power reserve, and magnetic resistance. The watch comes with two strap options: a stainless steel bracelet with a triple-security folding clasp and a black rubber strap with a double-security folding clasp and micro-adjustment. The price is €4,500, and it is limited to 2,025 pieces.
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