With the year almost at an end, you would be forgiven in thinking that the watch world would be winding down, too. But, instead of taking the foot off the gas, it seems as though some watchmakers have missed that memo, and it's been full throttle all week long.
In the next Watches of The Week edition, we've got a handful of new watches that brought about all of those good-vibe new-watch feels. TAG Heuer teamed up with our good friends Time+Tide on a fun limited edition collaboration, Blancpain dropped some new ceramic watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso Tribute Chronograph got the midas touch, while Vacheron Constantin seemed like it saved the best for last.
Have a great week ahead everyone!
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Model: Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Reference: Q389256J
Case: 29.90mm x 11.14mm
Case Material: Pink gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 860
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 52 hours
Price: CHF61,000 (Limited to 250 pieces)
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold is a masterful combination of heritage and modern innovation, celebrating the iconic Reverso design with a focus on mechanical complexity and visual artistry. Its rectangular case, measuring 49.4mm by 29.9mm with a thickness of 11.14mm, is crafted from 18k pink gold and features a polished finish accentuated by engraved gadroons at each end, reflecting its Art Deco origins. This updated model subtly reimagines the 1996 version, with refined crown and pushers and two completely redesigned dials that embody elegance and technical sophistication. The front dial boasts a sleek sunray-brushed black finish, highlighted by applied baton markers and graceful Dauphine hands set against the signature chemin de fer minute track. The reverse dial is an openworked marvel, exposing the inner workings of the chronograph, including the gear train, column wheel, and balance wheel, beneath bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration. This side also features a retrograde 30-minute counter, where the hand dramatically snaps back to zero in under 1/8 of a second, along with a central chronograph seconds ring, all brought to life with blued steel hands.
Powering this horological masterpiece is the in-house Calibre 860, a fully integrated, manually wound movement meticulously designed to fit the rectangular case. This movement, comprised of 300 components, features a column-wheel chronograph with a horizontal clutch, enabling its remarkable dual-dial functionality while maintaining an impressively thin profile. It provides a 52-hour power reserve, driving dual time displays and the energy-intensive chronograph mechanism with precision. Adding a layer of bespoke luxury, the watch is paired with two interchangeable straps crafted by the renowned Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano, including a calfskin-and-canvas strap and an all-leather alternative. These straps honor the Reverso's historical association with polo, completing the timepiece's narrative of sport and sophistication. A testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre's dedication to blending artistry with engineering, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a modern icon that redefines elegance and technical prowess in watchmaking.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel 'Snake'
Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Model: Reverso Tribute Enamel 'Snake'
Reference: Q39324D2
Case: 27.40mm x 9.73mm
Case Material: Pink gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 822
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Price: Price on request
To celebrate the 2025 Chinese New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Snake,’ a bespoke timepiece crafted in limited numbers by the master artisans of the Métiers Rares™ atelier. This exquisite creation showcases the Reverso’s legacy, originally designed in 1931 with its swiveling case to protect the watch face during polo matches, which later became a canvas for artistic expression. The case-back features a meticulously hand-engraved snake, its polished body and textured scales accentuated by black rhodium detailing, emerging from golden clouds against a black Grand Feu enamel background. The modelled engraving technique, requiring absolute precision, involved 80 hours of work using ten chisels, with the engraving performed over the fragile enamel base, highlighting the unparalleled skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artisans.
The watch dial, echoing the glossy black enamel of the case-back, embodies the signature Reverso Tribute aesthetic with Art Deco-inspired elements like Dauphine hands, faceted hour markers, and a chemin de fer minutes track. The pure black Grand Feu enamel, deceptively simple in appearance, demanded five or six enamel layers, fired and cooled over 24 hours, followed by polishing to achieve its flawless depth and uniformity. As one of the few watchmakers with an in-house enamelling atelier, Jaeger-LeCoultre preserves this ancient craft. Honoring the Chinese Zodiac Year, the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Snake’ celebrates the artistry and technical brilliance of La Grande Maison, continuing a series dedicated to the Zodiac, following the Tiger and Dragon, and symbolizing longevity, wisdom, and mystery.
Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage
Brand: Moritz Grossmann
Model: Enamel Roman Vintage
Reference: MG-003717
Case: 41mm x 11.35mm
Case Material: White gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 100.1
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Price: €62,800 (Limited to 8 pieces)
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, Moritz Grossmann has introduced the limited-edition Enamel Roman Vintage, a timepiece that perfectly embodies the manufactory's unwavering commitment to the highest standards of craftsmanship, innovation, and tradition. Founded in 2008, Moritz Grossmann pays homage to the legacy of its namesake, an influential figure in the history of watchmaking from Glashütte. Grossmann was known for his pioneering work in watchmaking and his creation of the German Watchmaking School, which shaped generations of artisans. True to his vision, the manufactory continues to produce a small yet exquisite collection of watches, characterized by exclusive in-house movements and meticulous decoration, all crafted to the most exacting standards. The Enamel Roman Vintage, which is limited to only eight pieces, marks a contemporary interpretation of Moritz Grossmann’s philosophy and celebrates the art of enameling—an ancient craft that has long been revered for its vibrancy and enduring beauty. Enamel has been prized since antiquity for its smooth, radiant surface and its ability to withstand the ravages of time without aging or losing its luster. The dial of the EEnamel Roman Vintage demonstrates this timeless technique, using multiple layers of enamel applied and fired to create a flawless, glossy black surface. The process is incredibly intricate, involving up to 90 distinct steps, with each dial being painstakingly fired and cooled multiple times to achieve its perfect finish. The dial's deep black tone is beautifully contrasted with Roman numerals in white and a striking red XII, evoking a sense of classic elegance and modern sophistication. The white gold case, with its seamless curves and understated design, provides a fitting frame for the dial, while the transparent case back allows for an unobstructed view of the remarkable movement within.
Inside, the Enamel Roman Vintage houses the calibre 100.1, a finely finished movement crafted from untreated German silver. This pillar movement features a distinctive 2/3 plate, adorned with broad, horizontal ribbing, and is signed with a delicate hand engraving, marking it as a true work of art. A hallmark of Moritz Grossmann’s technical innovation is the movement’s perfected hand-setting mechanism, which prevents the ingress of foreign particles and ensures precise hand adjustments. By simply pulling the winding crown, the mechanism switches to hand-setting mode and simultaneously halts the movement, allowing for accurate time adjustments without the risk of altering the hands when pushing the crown back into place. This feature, along with the movement’s elegant design, underscores the manufactory’s dedication to creating both visually stunning and mechanically sophisticated timepieces. The Enamel Roman Vintage, presented on a black alligator leather strap, is a perfect blend of modern craftsmanship and historical artistry. The limited edition of just eight pieces ensures exclusivity, making it a rare treasure for collectors and connoisseurs alike. This special model not only commemorates Moritz Grossmann’s 16 years of innovation and excellence but also honors the tradition of watchmaking as it continues to evolve, combining age-old techniques with cutting-edge advancements. It is a fitting tribute to the legacy of Moritz Grossmann and the enduring spirit of craftsmanship that defines the manufactory to this day.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Time+Tide Limited Edition
Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Time+Tide Limited Edition
Reference: WBP1181.FN8024
Case: 40mm
Case Material: Titanium
Water Resistance: 200m
Movement: Calibre TH50-00 (Solar quartz)
Frequency: -
Power Reserve: 6 months +
Price: AUD4,450 (Limited to 250 pieces)
TAG Heuer has partnered with our mates down in Melbourne to unveil the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Time+Tide Limited Edition. Limited to just 250 pieces, this exclusive timepiece will be available for purchase through TAG Heuer boutiques in Australia and New Zealand, online at TAG Heuer’s website, and through Time+Tide’s studios and website in both Australia and the UK. Founded by Andrew McUtchen in 2014, Time+Tide has become renowned for its high-quality, curated content for watch collectors and enthusiasts, and has built a strong presence with studios in Melbourne and London. The company has positioned itself as a global leader in horology publishing, offering exclusive retail experiences featuring some of the most prestigious watch brands.
The design of the new Solargraph Time+Tide Limited Edition draws inspiration from the rugged Kimberley region of Western Australia, one of the world’s most pristine wilderness areas. The watch features a lightweight, durable grade 2 sand-blasted titanium case that is built to withstand extreme conditions. The khaki NATO strap offers robustness and waterproof capability, while luxurious touches like the 18K 5N rose gold-plated strap loops, buckle, and bezel markings add a refined elegance. The 18K rose gold plating extends to the indexes, hands, and the TAG Heuer logo, making this limited edition particularly special for collectors. A unique detail that sets this model apart is the inclusion of Time+Tide's iconic anchor logo at the 6 o’clock index, cementing the collaboration’s distinctive identity.
As part of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer tradition, the new model is equipped with features such as a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screen-down crown, a water resistance of up to 200 meters, luminous markings, and a sapphire crystal glass. This watch celebrates the longstanding partnership between TAG Heuer and Time+Tide, which began in Australia and has flourished alongside Time+Tide's global expansion. Andrew McUtchen, founder of Time+Tide, shared his excitement for the launch, remarking, "Launching this timepiece during our 10th year feels incredibly meaningful to me and the Time+Tide team. TAG Heuer has long been a luxury icon in Australia, and a decade ago, I could never have imagined working together to release such a special watch."
Van Mulryan, General Manager of TAG Heuer Australia and New Zealand, echoed the sentiment, saying, "This TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Time+Tide Limited Edition, inspired by the Kimberley region, naturally celebrates our incredible partnership with Time+Tide, combining our designs with their signature style. We are excited to offer this exclusive timepiece to our clients in Australia and New Zealand, and I am confident the new launch will resonate deeply with the market." The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Time+Tide Limited Edition will be available for purchase starting at 9pm CET on November 18th/7am AEDT on November 19th through TAG Heuer boutiques in Australia and New Zealand, TAG Heuer's website, and Time+Tide’s studios and website in Australia and the UK.
Blancpain Expands Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Collection With New Ceramic Models
Blancpain has expanded its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection with three new striking timepieces, adding a flyback chronograph and two three-hand plus date models to the lineup. These new additions retain the sporty, assertive design of the black ceramic Bathyscaphe models while introducing vibrant dials and a variety of wristband options, including a high-tech ceramic bracelet, providing a range of stylish combinations. The Bathyscaphe, first introduced in 1956 as the urban counterpart to the iconic Fifty Fathoms diver's watch, was designed to be versatile and equally suited for daily wear, office settings, sporty getaways, and formal occasions. Its ability to seamlessly transition between environments is enhanced by the use of durable, high-tech ceramic, which imparts both strength and a modern edge to the new models.
The dials of the new Bathyscaphe models are particularly noteworthy, with their sunburst finishing and subtle gradient effects that create exceptional light reflections. The first three-hand model features a vibrant green dial, while the second one and the flyback chronograph are adorned with a blue dial, evoking the sunlight filtering through the depths of the ocean. These striking dials perfectly balance the bold black ceramic cases, reinforcing the timepieces' dynamic character. The new models measure 43.6 mm in diameter and are powered by robust, in-house movements: the Calibre 1315 for the three-hand models, and the Calibre F385 for the flyback chronograph. Both movements reflect Blancpain's commitment to high-performance, precision timekeeping.
The Calibre 1315, featured in the three-hand plus date models, offers exceptional timekeeping accuracy and boasts an impressive five-day power reserve, thanks to its three-series-coupled barrels. It also includes a stop-seconds function for precise time setting. Like all Blancpain movements, it is entirely designed, developed, produced, assembled, and adjusted in-house, with the movement's NAC-coated 18K gold oscillating weight decorated in the tradition of Haute Horlogerie. The Calibre F385, which powers the flyback chronograph, features a sophisticated column-wheel system with a vertical clutch that ensures smooth chronograph operation without stuttering. Operating at a high frequency of 5 Hz, it provides a 50-hour power reserve and offers precise timing to 1/10th of a second. The flyback function allows the chronograph to be reset and restarted with a single press, eliminating the need for multiple button presses required by traditional chronographs.
These new additions to the Bathyscaphe line enhance the already versatile Fifty Fathoms collection, which now includes a variety of ceramic timepieces, with options like the flyback chronograph, three-hand plus date, and complete calendar models with moon phase. The new models are available with different dial colors—blue, green, and black—and a wide range of wristbands, including sail-canvas, NATO straps, and ceramic bracelets. With these new releases, Blancpain continues to innovate while staying true to the Bathyscaphe's legacy as a robust, elegant, and high-performance timepiece, capable of tackling both urban environments and underwater adventures.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon High Jewellery
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Traditionnelle Tourbillon High Jewellery
Reference: 6057T/000G-H067
Case: 41mm x 12.46mm
Case Material: White gold (Set with 144 baguette-cut diamonds, crown set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds)
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 2160
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Price: Price on request
Vacheron Constantin has introduced a stunning new addition to its Traditionnelle collection with the high-jewellery Traditionnelle tourbillon model, powered by the ultra-thin Calibre 2160 movement. This exquisite timepiece exemplifies the brand's mastery of both technical watchmaking and decorative artistry, showcasing over 300 baguette-cut diamonds (~27.11 cts) set using the intricate invisible setting technique. Every component of the watch's case, including the lugs, bezel, clasp, crown, and even the dial, is adorned with diamonds, creating a radiant, seamless design that reflects Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to combining high watchmaking with high jewellery. The invisible setting technique, which was invented in the early 20th century, allows the diamonds to be set with no visible prongs, creating a smooth and uninterrupted surface. This requires exceptional precision, as the diamonds must be meticulously calibrated to fit into T-shaped channels, with the stones gradually increasing in size as they radiate outward from the tourbillon at the center.
The dial's diamond setting is designed to radiate outward from the tourbillon, which itself is a visual focal point of the watch, with its Maltese cross-shaped carriage. The diamonds on the caseband, lugs, and crown are also set using the invisible setting method, which required custom-cut stones to achieve a perfect fit. This remarkable gemsetting craftsmanship enhances the watch’s already impressive mechanical features, including its slim 12.46 mm profile, made possible by the Calibre 2160, Vacheron Constantin’s first self-winding tourbillon movement. The movement, measuring just 5.65 mm thick, consists of 188 components and offers an 80-hour power reserve. Operating at a moderate frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, it features a beautifully finished sapphire caseback that reveals the intricate details of the movement, including a peripheral 18K gold oscillating weight with a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern. The movement is finished to the highest standards, with hand-bevelled bridges, Côtes de Genève decoration, and polished screws. The openworked tourbillon, featuring the Maison's emblem, also includes a small seconds hand indicated by a blackened screw. This Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery timepiece, paired with a dark grey alligator leather strap, combines the pinnacle of horological innovation with exceptional decorative craftsmanship, making it a true masterpiece of luxury watchmaking.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Asian Culture
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin series offers an exceptional exploration of time’s cyclical nature, drawing on both cultural and philosophical perspectives to capture the eternal rhythm of the seasons. For this series, the brand looks to the cyclical time as seen in Asian traditions, particularly in Chinese cosmology, where the seasons are represented by sacred animals. Each season is embodied by a mythical creature: the Azure Dragon for spring, the Vermilion Bird for summer, the White Tiger for autumn, and the Black Tortoise for winter. These creatures are meticulously rendered in wood marquetry, showcasing Vacheron Constantin’s mastery of decorative arts combined with high mechanical watchmaking. The timepieces feature the ultra-thin Calibre 2160 movement, a mechanical tourbillon regulator, embodying the fusion of artistry and horological engineering.
This concept of Le Temps Divin contemplates various perceptions of time, from physical, linear time (as seen in chronology) to astronomical time, represented through the seasons, and finally, metaphysical time, which questions the endless present. This philosophical approach to time has deep roots in Vacheron Constantin's history, reflecting a legacy of blending scientific watchmaking with artistic expression. The series is a continuation of the Maison’s ongoing exploration of seasonal cycles in watchmaking, building on previous creations such as the Métiers d'Art – The Four Seasons and La Symbolique des Laques.
The intricate wood marquetry involved in these timepieces is an art in itself. It takes up to six weeks to create a single dial, which is crafted from as many as 200 individual components sourced from around 10 types of wood. These woods are chosen for their natural colors, such as sycamore, walnut, and maple, some of which are stained or heated to achieve the desired hues. The design process begins by scaling the motif to four times its final size, ensuring that every detail, down to the smallest part, is clean and accurate. These patterns are then traced onto layers of veneer and sawn using a pedal-operated scroll saw. The pieces are carefully assembled like a jigsaw puzzle before being glued, sanded, and varnished, creating a flawless surface that showcases the beauty of the natural materials. The marquetry designs are inspired by ancient Asian artworks, particularly the murals in Japan’s 7th-century Kitora tomb, which depicted the sacred animals associated with the four cardinal directions.
Each timepiece in the Le Temps Divin series is powered by Vacheron Constantin’s Calibre 2160, a self-winding tourbillon movement that is just 5.65 mm thick. This slender movement offers an impressive 80-hour power reserve and operates at a moderate frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. The movement’s open architecture is visible through the sapphire caseback, revealing the intricate finishing applied to each of its 188 components. The circular-grained plate, hand-bevelled bridges with Côtes de Genève decoration, and chamfered and polished screws all highlight the precision and craftsmanship that defines Vacheron Constantin’s high watchmaking standards. Additionally, the tourbillon, which features a Maltese cross-shaped carriage with a blackened screw indicating the small seconds, is delicately rounded by hand, further demonstrating the brand’s commitment to perfection.
Through this series, Vacheron Constantin invites watch enthusiasts to reflect on time’s cyclical nature and the eternal passage of the seasons, embodied through a remarkable combination of high horology and artistic craftsmanship. The Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin is a true representation of Vacheron Constantin’s philosophy of marrying the precision of timekeeping with the artistry of decorative crafts, creating timepieces that are as intellectually stimulating as they are visually captivating.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin series presents a profound exploration of metaphysical time, interpreted through the lens of Japanese mythology. The series delves into time's abstract nature, moving beyond its physical and cyclical dimensions to focus on the metaphysical concept of time, where moments from the past resonate vividly in the present. To embody this timeless, eternal quality, the Maison turned to the sacred deities, or kami, of Japanese culture. Three key figures—Izanagi, Amaterasu, and Konohanasakuya-hime — were chosen to represent this metaphysical time. Each of these deities is depicted through intricate artistry on the dials of one-of-a-kind timepieces, blending high watchmaking with the finest decorative crafts.
The connection to Japanese culture is a longstanding one for Vacheron Constantin, with previous works like a samurai pocket watch from 1924 and a lacquered 1935 table clock showcasing the Maison's fascination with the symbolism of Japan. For this series, the kami are portrayed through a combination of intaglio engraving, grisaille enamel, and miniature enamel, creating dials that capture both the ethereal beauty of the deities and the vibrant environments they inhabit. The dial of each timepiece begins with a delicate intaglio engraving technique, which involves etching fine, microgrooved lines into the metal to create a textured surface that gives the dial a velvety, almost tactile quality. This step is followed by the application of translucent flux to protect the engraved surface.
The figures themselves are brought to life through enamel work, beginning with a base of Limoges white enamel to shape the deities in delicate relief. The enameller then applies multiple layers of color, building up the depiction of the kami with six to seven successive coats, each fired at high temperatures to fix the enamel. This labor-intensive process allows for a rich chromatic depth and luminous quality that enhances the visual impact of the divine figures. The final touches include two layers of translucent enamel, which are stone-polished to bring out the intricate details of the design. The creation of each dial takes over three weeks, with the artisans carefully crafting every minute detail under a microscope.
Each of the timepieces features a unique depiction of one of the three deities. Izanagi, the god of creation, is shown in the act of striking the ocean with his sacred spear to form the Japanese archipelago. Amaterasu, the sun goddess, is depicted in ceremonial garb, radiating light and carrying a sun disc and sakaki branch. Konohanasakuya-hime, the goddess of Mount Fuji, is shown surrounded by cherry blossoms and the mist-shrouded silhouette of the iconic mountain, symbolizing the fleeting beauty of life, much like the cherry blossoms she embodies. These representations capture the cosmic energies of these deities, who, in Japanese mythology, had the power to alter the course of history and bring about transformative moments that shaped the universe.
The watch is powered by Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin Calibre 2160, a self-winding movement with a tourbillon regulator. Measuring just 5.65 mm thick, the movement offers an 80-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. The craftsmanship of the movement is just as exceptional as the dial, with circular-grained plates, hand-bevelled bridges, and a peripheral rotor that further accentuate the watch’s slim profile. Through the sapphire caseback, the movement’s intricate finishing is on full display, showcasing Vacheron Constantin's mastery of both mechanical engineering and artistic expression.
With the Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin series, Vacheron Constantin offers a captivating journey through metaphysical time, blending the art of high watchmaking with the rich cultural and philosophical traditions of Japan. Each timepiece in the collection serves as a tribute to the divine forces that govern the universe and an exploration of time as an infinite, ever-present concept, forever embodied in the mythology of the kami.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Greek Mythology
Vacheron Constantin's Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin series offers an eloquent representation of time's physical dimension through the lens of Greek mythology, embodied by Chronos, the god of time. This collection, which explores different cultural and conceptual interpretations of time, brings the mythological figure of Chronos to life through masterful craftsmanship and technical innovation, combining engraving, guilloché work, and groundbreaking horological design.
In Greek mythology, Chronos personifies the concept of organized, linear, and measurable time. He is often depicted as the god who governs the flow of time itself, from its beginning to its end, and is considered the father of the Horae, the goddesses who personified the divisions of time. Vacheron Constantin's interpretation of Chronos focuses on this linear and physical dimension of time, with two timepieces dedicated to this god, featuring the brand’s Calibre 1990. This movement is equipped with a bi-axial armillary tourbillon and retrograde indications for both hours and minutes, a technical feat protected by four patents.
Chronos, as a symbolic figure, has been a recurring motif for Vacheron Constantin, with the Maison often drawing inspiration from Greco-Roman traditions. Their legacy includes numerous early 20th-century models referencing Greek and Roman mythology, including timepieces featuring figures from the pantheon or scenes from ancient life, demonstrating a deep connection to the heritage of classical civilizations.
The technical heart of the Les Cabinotiers pieces dedicated to Chronos is Calibre 1990, a movement that pushes the boundaries of horological innovation. This is a manual-winding movement with a 60-hour power reserve, featuring bi-retrograde displays for both hours and minutes. The retrograde system enables the hands to jump back to zero after completing a cycle, providing a dynamic and engaging display of time. The bi-axial armillary tourbillon—reminiscent of the celestial movements—sits at the heart of the dial, rotating on two axes and completing a full revolution every 60 seconds. It is housed under a distinctive sapphire crystal bubble at 9 o’clock, adding to the visual drama of the timepiece. The tourbillon itself is a work of art, with two interlocking carriages that rotate at different speeds, neutralizing the effects of gravity on the escapement and ensuring greater precision.
The tourbillon also features a spherical balance-spring, a technical innovation that improves accuracy by providing concentric motion, and a silicon escapement, made from materials that reduce friction and wear without requiring lubrication. These features demonstrate Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to integrating the highest levels of technical sophistication with artistic expression.
The technical developments embedded in Calibre 1990 are protected by four patents:
Instantaneous Retrograde System: A single minutes cam synchronizes the jump of both the hour and minute hands, ensuring the retrograde display is fluid and precise.
Escapement Collet: The titanium collet secures the inner end of the balance-spring, improving the regulation of the timepiece.
Tourbillon Architecture: The tourbillon carriage rotates every 15 seconds, forming the Maltese cross emblem, a hallmark of Vacheron Constantin.
Silicon Pallet-Lever: The use of diamond-polished silicon pallets improves wear resistance and reduces friction for smoother operation.
The technical complexity of the Les Cabinotiers timepieces is matched only by the artistry of their decoration. The engraving and guilloché work on these models are particularly exceptional, turning each watch into a true masterpiece of craftsmanship.
In the Ode to Chronos edition, the case components are meticulously decorated with geometric motifs inspired by Greek friezes. These friezes adorn the bezel, case middle, lugs, interhorn spaces, and even the folding clasp. The engraver uses the taille de joue intaglio technique, where the chisel is tilted to create varying depths and sizes of incisions. This method is especially suited for creating intricate, geometrical designs with a depth of field enhanced by light reflection.
At 9 o’clock, a bas-relief depiction of Chronos himself holding an hourglass is sculpted into the case, adding a striking symbolic representation of time. The figure is modeled in relief, with the sky and clouds in the background etched to a depth of 0.5 mm, while Chronos and his wings are carved to 1 mm deep. This engraving process, which took over 290 hours to complete, is complemented by the hand-guilloché Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the movement’s mainplate and bridges.
The Tribute to Infinite Time edition is inspired by the iconic Pantheon dome in Rome, with the geometrical motifs on the case echoing the dome’s radiant perspective. The engraver employs the taille de joue method once again, adjusting the angle of the chisel to create the pyramidal depth effect on the case, a real technical challenge given the tapering shape of the case. This task took approximately 120 hours to complete, creating an optical illusion of depth that is both precise and breathtaking.
In addition to the engraving, the master guillocheur has applied a complementary geometric motif to the movement’s mainplate and bridges, further tying together the case and movement decorations. The seamless, angular pattern is a testament to the artisan’s ability to harmonize the design, even when working with the movement's complex structure.
Comments