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Dimitri Tsilioris

Watches Of The Week: 14/10/2024 - 20/10/2024



Welcome to the latest edition of my weekly retrospective round up of all the new watch releases of the last seven days, Watches Of The Week. This week is highlighted by a handful of new and exciting watches, including timepieces from the likes of Ulysse Nardin, Panerai, Angelus and Laco.


Perhaps the biggest news of them all though, is the announcement and officially unveiling of Patek Philippe's first new collection of watches in 25 years, the Cubitus collection. Made up of three references, the Cubitus has the collective #watchfam in a bit of a frenzy over the last few days.


Side note: Apologies for my inactivity here, the last week and a bit have been super busy with work and family life taking over.


With that, enjoy and have a fantastic week ahead!



Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection






The rumours have been floating about, ever since Patek Philippe announced it would be unveiling a new collection of watches, a first for the maison in over 25 years. What would we see? Perhaps an invigoration of the smaller dress watch akin to the Calatrava, but something a touch more contemporary. Honestly, it was anyone's guess. Then came the leak, and everyone was in a frenzy (myself included). And then, on October 17, it was confirmed and made official, Patek Philippe had just unveiled the Cubitus as its newest collection in over a quarter of a century.


We have three models, the most complicated being the 5822P Cubitus, then we have the two-tone 5821/1AR Cubitus (we haven't seen that metal configuration in a LONG time), and then finally and much to the avail of the every 5711/1A-014 fan out there, came the 5821/1A Cubitus in its green dial guise. The 5822P is powered by the Calibre 26-330 S C complete with an instantaneous big date, a day indicator and a moon phase with a blue dial and in a platinum case, the 5821/1AR Cubitus has a central sweeping seconds hand along with a date window at 3 o'clock and is encased in a rose gold and stainless steel case also with a blue dial, while the 5821/1A Cubitus has the same movement, albeit with a full stainless steel case and that beautiful green dial.


The 5822P Cubitus is priced at CHF75,000, the 5821/1AR Cubitus at CHF52,000 and the 5821/1A Cubitus at CHF35,000. Sources have it that the Cubitus is fully designed up to 2039, so we know a few things from that. One, the collection isn't going anywhere. Two, we can expect A LOT of new references to come out soon. And three, as noted by Mr. Stern himself, supply should meet demand following the first 12 months of market introduction.


Laco's Scorpion Collection Goes Dark






Laco has expanded its Scorpion line of sports watches with the addition of new black DLC (diamond-like carbon) models. These latest releases offer a rugged yet refined look, thanks to the scratch-resistant DLC coating that gives the watches a stealthy, matte finish. The 42mm stainless steel case retains the robustness that the Scorpion series is known for, while its 300-meter water resistance makes it a great choice for divers and adventurers. Available in four dial colors—black, blue, green, and orange—each watch features Super-LumiNova for enhanced readability in low light conditions, ensuring the time remains visible even in the depths of the ocean or in nighttime settings.

These models are powered by Laco’s automatic Laco 200 movement, based on the Miyota 821A, known for its reliability. The unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale allows precise timing during dives or sports activities, further enhancing the practicality of the design. With a screw-down crown and a transparent case back showcasing the movement, these timepieces embody a perfect balance between durability, functionality, and style, appealing to both watch collectors and outdoor enthusiasts. The black DLC coating not only gives a contemporary edge but also protects the watches from everyday wear and tear, making them a versatile option for anyone who leads an active lifestyle. Laco’s Scorpion DLC models demonstrate the brand’s commitment to creating high-performance, durable sports watches with a distinctive design language that blends toughness with elegance.


Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE Navy Blue






  • Brand: Ulysse Nardin

  • Model: Freak ONE Navy Blue

  • Reference: 2403-500-3A/3

  • Case: 44mm x 13.37mm

  • Case Material: Titanium (Black DLC-coated), Carbonium bezel

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Movement: Calibre UN-240

  • Frequency: 3 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 90 hours

  • Price: CHF63,300


Ulysse Nardin introduces the Freak ONE Navy Blue, an impressive evolution in the iconic Freak collection. This avant-garde timepiece features a 44mm titanium case, coated in black DLC for durability and scratch resistance, complemented by a bezel made of sustainable Carbonium, derived from aerospace-grade recycled carbon fiber. The watch's standout feature is its unconventional display—the movement itself functions as the minute hand, rotating around the dial to indicate the time. It is powered by the innovative UN-240 automatic movement, which incorporates a silicon escapement for increased precision and reliability. This silicon technology, pioneered by Ulysse Nardin, is known for its resistance to magnetic fields and wear, enhancing the overall lifespan and accuracy of the watch. The watch offers a 90-hour power reserve, ensuring long-lasting performance without frequent winding. The deep navy blue color of the dial and accents pays homage to the brand’s maritime heritage, while the intricate design and engineering showcase Ulysse Nardin's expertise in horological innovation. With no conventional hands or crown, the Freak ONE Navy Blue continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking with a design that combines technical mastery and aesthetic boldness.



Panerai Luminor Quaranta Carbotech™ PAM01526






  • Brand: Panerai

  • Model: Luminor Quaranta Carbotech™ PAM01526

  • Reference: PAM01526

  • Case: 40mm

  • Case Material: Carbotech

  • Water Resistance: 300m

  • Movement: P.900

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

  • Price: AUD20,200


Panerai introduces the Luminor Quaranta Carbotech™ PAM01526, making its world debut at the 2024 Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR). The watch features Panerai’s classic design elements such as the crown-protecting lever, sandwich dial, and solid lugs but now comes in a lighter, more durable Carbotech™ case for the first time. This carbon-based material, compressed with PEEK polymer, is 80% lighter than steel and highly resistant to wear, making it ideal for active use. Each piece has a unique appearance due to its uneven matt black surface. The sophisticated yet sporty matte green sandwich dial is paired with white Super-LumiNova® X1, which emits a green glow for superior visibility in low light conditions. Inside, the watch houses the reliable automatic P.900 movement, which is both slim and powerful, offering a 3-day power reserve. This caliber, measuring just 4.2 mm thick, includes a bidirectional oscillating weight, stop-second function, and a balance wheel operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour for precise timekeeping. The see-through titanium DLC case back allows a glimpse of the movement’s inner workings. Despite its cutting-edge materials, the PAM01526 remains lightweight, weighing less than 100 grams, and is water-resistant to 300 meters (30 BAR), making it ideal for diving and outdoor activities. The watch also comes with a military green rubber strap and an additional calf leather strap, equipped with Panerai's PAM Click Release System for easy interchangeability, paying tribute to Panerai’s 1960s designs.


Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion






  • Brand: Urwerk

  • Model: UR-150 Scorpion

  • Reference: UR-150

  • Case: 42.49mm x 14.79mm

  • Case Material: Titanium (Titan); Steel (Dark)

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: UR-50-01

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 43 hours

  • Price: CHF88,000 (Titan); CHF89,000 (Dark) (Limited to 50 pieces each)


The Urwerk UR-150 "Scorpion" is an extraordinary addition to the world of luxury timepieces, showcasing the brand's pioneering approach to watchmaking through its unique satellite hour complication. This timepiece features a striking case crafted from lightweight titanium, which is ergonomically designed for a comfortable fit on the wrist. The innovative wandering hour display operates with a retrograde minute hand, allowing for a captivating visual experience as the hours glide seamlessly past. At its core, the watch is powered by the advanced UR-50.01 automatic movement, boasting an impressive 43-hour power reserve that underscores Urwerk's dedication to precision engineering. The UR-150 is available in two variations - Titan, which showcases a polished titanium finish, and Dark, with a sleek black DLC coating. Each version is limited to just 50 pieces, making it a rare and sought-after item for collectors and enthusiasts alike. The Scorpion's bold design and intricate mechanics exemplify Urwerk's commitment to avant-garde horology, where art meets engineering in every detail.


Krayon Anywhere Arborea Métiers d'Art 2024






  • Brand: Krayon

  • Model: Anywhere Arborea Métiers d'Art 2024

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 39mm x 9.50mm

  • Case Material: Platinum

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Movement: Calibre 030

  • Frequency: 3 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

  • Price: CHF178,000 (Limited to 15 pieces)


Krayon’s Anywhere Arborea watch masterfully intertwines artistic expression and technical innovation, paying homage to Henri Rousseau’s painting, The Virgin Forest at Sunset. This exceptional timepiece features a meticulously crafted dial, adorned with 575 unique, hand-painted cells that evoke the vibrant hues of nature during sunset. The watch houses a sophisticated ephemeris complication, enabling the wearer to track sunrise and sunset times at any chosen location worldwide. Encased in a durable 39mm platinum shell, it showcases the manual Caliber C030 movement, which comprises 432 components and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. The interplay of artistic design and precision mechanics transforms the Anywhere Arborea into more than just a watch; it becomes a personal connection to nature, reminding us of life's cyclical beauty. Through its vibrant colors and intricate craftsmanship, the watch captures the fleeting moments of daylight, allowing the wearer to carry a piece of Rousseau’s imaginative world on their wrist. This unique approach to horology not only celebrates the essence of time but also connects the wearer to the natural world, creating an intimate experience that transcends traditional timekeeping.


Angelus Instrument De Vitesse Indianapolis And Silverstone Editions






  • Brand: Angelus

  • Model: Instrument De Vitesse

  • Reference: 0CHBS.U01A.V010S (Blue); 0CHBS.G01A.V010S (Grey)

  • Case: 39mm x 9.27mm

  • Case Material: Stainless steel

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Movement: A5000

  • Frequency: 3 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 42 hours

  • Price: CHF17,200 (Limited to 25 pieces each)


The Instrument de Vitesse chronograph from Angelus is a refined timepiece that captures the essence of vintage design while emphasizing functionality with its clean, minimalist aesthetic. Available in two limited editions—Indianapolis blue and Silverstone grey—this chronograph features a sleek dial devoid of sub-counters, making it appear at first glance to be a simple three-hand watch. However, its discrete tachymeter scale, designed for measuring average speed over a maximum of 60 seconds, is a nod to its true purpose. The watch operates through a single push-piece on the crown that activates the slender direct-drive central seconds hand. Encased in a compact 39mm steel case that is only 9.27mm thick, the dial is organized into two functional zones, with the outer zone showcasing a tachymeter scale graduated from 60 to 500 km/h, while the inner zone focuses on time display. This model features Angelus's own A5000 calibre, a manually wound movement that maintains a vintage charm with its column wheel and horizontal clutch mechanism, measuring a reduced thickness of 4.20mm and oscillating at a frequency of 3 Hz. Completing the aesthetic, each watch comes with a tone-on-tone nubuck strap matching the dial color, making the Instrument de Vitesse both a sophisticated accessory and a practical tool for speed measurement.


Arnold & Son Nebula 40 Steel, Golden And Black Edition






Arnold & Son’s Nebula 40 Steel presents a refined take on its skeletonized timepiece, marrying modern design with traditional watchmaking artistry. The new 40mm case, crafted in steel with a slim 9.10mm profile, features softened flanks and plunging lugs, enhancing the watch's streamlined, modern look. It showcases the A&S5201 calibre, a visually striking, skeletonized movement designed with seven functional bridges radiating like arms from the center, evoking nebulae. This intricate layout emphasizes symmetry and transparency, capturing both artistic beauty and mechanical mastery. The movement's intricate "Rayons de la Gloire" motif, palladium-finished skeleton bridges, and polished chamfers contribute to its stunning visual appeal. Two versions of the Nebula are available: one with black rhodium-plated components and multiple strap options, and the other with golden accents limited to 88 pieces, offering a steel bracelet only. Each version exemplifies Arnold & Son’s meticulous finishing, including a 90-hour power reserve supported by two large barrels. The skeletonized layout not only ensures mechanical excellence but also adds elegance through its delicate construction, designed to evoke both the visual and functional aspects of a starry nebula.


De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius






  • Brand: De Bethune

  • Model: DB25GMT Starry Varius

  • Reference: DB25VGR

  • Case: 42mm x 11.80mm

  • Case Material: Rose gold

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Movement: DB2507

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 120 hours

  • Price: Price on request


De Bethune’s DB25GMT Starry Varius is a masterpiece designed to celebrate both the art of watchmaking and the intricacies of global travel. Its 42mm rose gold case, inspired by the celestial sky, features a meticulously crafted dial adorned with a rotating microsphere that distinguishes between day and night, capturing the natural transitions with pink and blue tones. The local and home time zones are elegantly presented via the GMT function, enhanced by blued hands that gracefully track time. Its mechanical GMT movement, powered by the DB2507 calibre, operates with precision and ease, boasting a five-day power reserve and the brand’s signature silicon escape wheel for improved energy transmission. The dial reflects a miniature starry sky, handcrafted in blued titanium and gold leaf, evoking a sense of wonder and elegance, while the technical sophistication is highlighted by the balance spring and two barrels, showcasing De Bethune’s mastery of high-end watchmaking. Hidden beneath the surface is an intricate, hand-wound mechanical treasure, combining beauty and complexity in a timepiece that speaks to both seasoned globetrotters and horological enthusiasts alike.

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