Another week down, another retrospective round up of all the latest watch news and events of the last seven days in your go-to catch-up, Watches Of The Week. Last edition's proceedings included some very interesting releases from Ulysse Nardin, Panerai, De Bethune and Urwerk. But, and there is always a but. News from the atelier of Patek Philippe dropped, with the maison unveiling its first new collection in 25 years.
The Cubitus gave birth to not only a handful of new watches in a novel shape for the brand, but it also lit a fire in the belly of the watch community, with a reaction unlike anything we've seen in a long, long time. Some love it, others hate it. And there weren't many fence sitters.
Be that as it may, the dust has sort of settled on the whole Cubitus debate. Which means we can shine the light on some new watch releases. Audemars Piguet quietly unveiled a limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, Breguet unveiled a couple of new Classique models, A. Lange & Söhne celebrated the Lange 1's 30th anniversary and Glashütte Original dropped its latest inverted dial wonder.
Happy reading and have a great week ahead.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition
Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition
Reference: 26586BA.OO.1240BA.99
Case: 41mm x 6.20mm
Case Material: Yellow gold
Water Resistance: 20m
Movement: Calibre 5133
Frequency: 2.75 Hz
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Price: Price on request (Limited to 88 pieces)
Audemars Piguet very quietly unveiled its latest piece of high horology in the form of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition reference 26586BA.OO.1240BA.99. Released in a super limited run of only 88 pieces for the Chinese market, the new reference is an extension on the original titanium RD2 released in 2018. Crafted entirely of yellow gold with a matching yellow gold bracelet, the new reference boasts a clean yellow gold-toned vertically brushed dial with matching yellow gold hands and hour markers. The ultra-thin dimensions of the case are part in parcel because of the slim dimensions of the Calibre 5133. It itself measures 32mm across by a paper-thin 2.90mm and features a full perpetual calendar along with an astronomical moon phase indicator. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition reference 26586BA.OO.1240BA.99 is released with pricing on request and in a super limited run of only 88 pieces.
A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 30 Years Of The Lange 1
The Lange 1 by A. Lange & Söhne celebrates thirty years of innovation and artistry with two exclusive anniversary editions, each highlighting the watch’s legacy of precision and unique design. Limited to 300 pieces each, one edition features a platinum case with a striking black onyx dial—a rare material in fine watchmaking—while the other comes in pink gold with a blue 925 silver dial. The Little Lange 1, also released in these new color combinations, is limited to 150 pieces per variant. Launched on October 24, 1994, the Lange 1 broke traditional design rules with its off-center dial layout, signature outsize date, and visual balance rooted in the golden ratio. These details have contributed to its timeless appeal and position as a classic in mechanical watchmaking. Powered by the L121.1 calibre with a 72-hour power reserve, the watch features an intricate mechanism that ensures a smooth date change at midnight, and an artisanal finish with blued screws and gold chatons visible through a sapphire crystal caseback. The Lange 1 family embodies A. Lange & Söhne’s drive to continually innovate, introducing new models such as the Lange 1 Time Zone and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, each integrating advanced complications. Looking ahead, A. Lange & Söhne remains committed to merging function and elegance in its designs, showcasing an enduring pursuit of horological excellence.
Breguet's New Classique Models
The latest Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 models by Breguet honor the brand’s commitment to elegance and precision by debuting for the first time in platinum. This distinctive metal, known for its weight, durability, and hypoallergenic properties, is often referred to as “the metal of kings.” The Classique 5177, at 38mm in diameter, and the slightly larger 39mm Classique 7787, are crafted with all of Breguet’s iconic stylistic elements, including a slim bezel, knurled crown, slender lugs, and fluted case band, perfectly capturing the spirit of the 18th-century brand. Both timepieces showcase a deep black "Grand Feu" enamel dial, an intricate process involving multiple high-temperature firings to achieve a uniform finish and enduring shine. The dials feature classic Breguet numerals and rhodium-plated “moon” tip hands for a refined aesthetic. The 5177 keeps time with a clean, balanced display, while the 7787 offers an added moon-phase complication and power reserve indicator, with the moon's phases rendered by a hammered gold disc against a starry backdrop, capturing a romantic allure. Breguet’s mastery extends to the manufacture calibers within each watch. The Classique 5177 is powered by the self-winding 777Q calibre, offering a 55-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring for heightened durability. Meanwhile, the Classique 7787 features the 591DRL calibre with a 38-hour power reserve and an exceptionally precise moon-phase display, accurate to one day in 348.7 years. These timepieces embody the historical expertise and contemporary innovation that continue to define Breguet’s legacy in haute horology.
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon
Brand: De Bethune
Model: DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon
Reference: DB28XPSWT
Case: 43mm x 9.10mm
Case Material: Titanium
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre DB2009v6
Frequency: 5 Hz
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Price: Price on request (Limited to 10 pieces)
De Bethune introduces the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a marvel of aesthetic and technical ingenuity within its iconic DB28XP collection, underscoring the brand's reputation for meticulous craftsmanship. This ultra-thin watch features an intricate titanium hour ring with blued microlight detailing and polished hour markers, while the minute ring and 30-second dial showcase circular satin-finished titanium. Further enhancing its futuristic elegance, the barrel bridge gleams with polished beveling and blued microlight accents, while a polished titanium triangular central bridge and dial base add depth and sophistication to its design. At the heart of this masterpiece is De Bethune’s feather-light 30-second titanium tourbillon, a mechanism composed of 63 parts and weighing only 0.18 grams. This tourbillon, completing a rotation every 30 seconds, delivers unparalleled precision and contributes to the architectural allure of the watch, creating a visually captivating experience. Limited to just 10 pieces, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon exemplifies De Bethune’s commitment to blending heritage with modern innovation, offering collectors a true piece of horological artistry.
Glashütte Original PanoLunarInverse Limited Edition
Brand: Glashütte Original
Model: PanoLunarInverse Limited Edition
Reference: 1-91-04-01-03-6
Case: 42mm x 12.46mm
Case Material: Platinum
Water Resistance: 50m
Movement: Calibre 91-04
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Price: AUD67,150 (Limited to 200 pieces)
The Glashütte Original PanoLunarInverse celebrates humanity’s longstanding fascination with the moon, a celestial presence that has influenced our lives and inspired scientific pursuits for centuries. This limited-edition timepiece, with only 200 crafted pieces, reimagines the moon phase display as both an homage to horological tradition and an avant-garde expression of modern watchmaking. With an intricately designed night sky of deep blue aventurine—a sparkling, 17th-century Venetian glass known as "goldstone"—the PanoLunarInverse captures the silent mystery of the moon’s allure. A meticulously engraved lunar surface in relief, complete with delicate craters and mountains, provides a realistic view of the moon against a backdrop of stars. Its sophisticated inverse movement design showcases the heart of the watch directly on the dial side, revealing the meticulous inner workings typically hidden from view. This unique configuration includes the hour and minute displays positioned off-center, a distinct feature of the Pano series, and is paired with a black rhodium-plated balance bridge adorned with intricate guilloché. Housed in a 42 mm platinum case and designed to withstand depths of up to 5 bar, the PanoLunarInverse combines Glashütte’s signature craftsmanship with advanced engineering, creating a distinctly modern architecture infused with traditional elegance. Powered by the hand-finished 91-04 automatic calibre, the watch offers a robust 45-hour power reserve and is complemented by a choice of grey Louisiana alligator leather or eco-friendly synthetic straps. A unique, skeletonized rotor adorned with a domed moon can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back, further emphasizing the watch’s celestial theme.
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton
Brand: Rado
Model: PanoLunarInverse Limited Edition
Reference: 32192152
Case: 43mm x 14.60mm
Case Material: Ceramic
Water Resistance: 300m
Movement: Calibre R808
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Price: AUD7,450
The Captain Cook Skeleton series by Rado takes a bold, sophisticated leap forward with the introduction of a new model featuring warm rose-gold PVD accents on its crown and bezel, blending the series’ iconic style with refined, contemporary touches. Its characteristic box-shaped sapphire crystal, with double-sided anti-reflective treatment, provides a clear view of a smoke-tinted dial that sets a striking stage for the watch’s skeleton movement, highlighting intricate craftsmanship and geometric precision. The reliable 25-jewel R808 automatic calibre powers this model, boasting exceptional accuracy and an 80-hour power reserve, tested across five positions for uncompromised reliability and featuring an antimagnetic Nivachron™ hairspring for added resilience. A second sapphire crystal on the titanium case back invites wearers to admire the movement’s layered, intricate components from both sides. This new Captain Cook doesn’t compromise on durability or adventure-readiness, featuring a rotatable bezel with sharp, rose-gold PVD-treated teeth and a high-tech ceramic insert in matte black, laser-etched to resist fingerprints and further enhance its rugged aesthetic. The black ceramic contrasts beautifully with rose-gold markers and numerals, while Super-LumiNova® coating on the hands and indices emits a futuristic blue glow for visibility in low light. High-tech ceramic lends not only style but also comfort, extending from the case into a seamless three-row ceramic bracelet with a titanium clasp, offering durability and an ultra-smooth finish. With its 30-bar (300m) water resistance and a durable screw-down crown, the new model upholds Rado’s Art of Ceramic mastery, blending technical innovation with elegance. Fine details like the Côtes-de-Genève engraving, the PVD-coated moving anchor, and the oscillating ruby backplate underscore Rado’s precision and creativity, showcasing the brand’s material expertise and dedication to watchmaking excellence.
Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition
Brand: Seiko
Model: Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition
Reference: SPB489J
Case: 39.50mm x 13.20mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Water Resistance: 200m
Movement: Calibre 6R35
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Price: AUD1,250 (Limited to 1,000 pieces)
Seiko’s Alpinist, first launched in 1959 to cater to mountain climbers and outdoor enthusiasts, has grown into a global icon in sports watches, setting the stage for Seiko’s legendary stopwatches and dive watches. The latest Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition honors this heritage with a tribute to the rugged landscapes of Australia’s red deserts. Featuring a vivid red dial inspired by the desert’s rich hues at sunrise and sunset, this limited-edition watch captures the untamed beauty of the Outback. Complementing the dial, a high-quality brown leather strap adds a rugged yet sophisticated touch, staying true to the Alpinist’s adventurous spirit. Equipped with the reliable Automatic Calibre 6R35, the watch offers a robust 70-hour power reserve and a 39.5mm stainless steel case with an exhibition case back, revealing the intricate movement. With 200m water resistance, Lumibrite markers, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, and a built-in compass scale, it’s designed for the modern adventurer. Available from October 23, 2024, in Seiko boutiques and online, and in select Australasian retailers from November 1, this individually numbered, limited-edition release of only 1,000 pieces is presented in exclusive red packaging, making it a coveted collector’s item that celebrates Seiko’s enduring legacy and the spirit of exploration.
Chanel x The Boat Race Company
Chanel and The Boat Race Company Ltd have announced an exciting long-term partnership, naming Chanel as the Title Sponsor and Official Timekeeping Partner of The Chanel J12 Boat Race. This renowned event, set for Sunday, April 13, 2025, will showcase the Women’s and Men’s Boat Races along London’s iconic 4.25-mile Championship Course from Putney to Mortlake. Known for drawing over 250,000 spectators to the riverbank and millions of viewers worldwide via live BBC coverage, the Boat Race has solidified its place as a standout fixture in London’s sporting calendar. This collaboration underscores a shared philosophy between Chanel and The Boat Race Company: a commitment to excellence through teamwork and dedication. Just as Oxford and Cambridge athletes strive for greatness on race day, Chanel champions a tradition of supporting creative mastery and exceptional skill.