As I look back with a touch of nostalgia and fondness, I can sit back and safely say that 2024 was one of the busiest, most hectic new-watch-laden years in recent memory. From the opening of LVMH Watch Week to the glorious cornucopia that is Watches And Wonders to Geneva Watch Days and everything else in between, 2024 was a wild rollercoaster of a ride.
Putting together a list of the best watches of 2024 was always going to be a challenge for me. I just think that every brand at some point of the year really went above and beyond in their novelties, so the tact I took was not of one focused solely on being better than the other, nor is it a favourite piece of mine. I chose the watches that left a lasting impact on me, weeks and months following their release. Whether it be a sour one or a sweet one, the lasting taste left in my mouth was the defining factor I used to so resolutely put together this list.
Here it is, the grande finale: 2024's Watches Of The Year.
Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar
The Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar won my vote. From sunburst blue dial with a black gradient to the diamond indices, the simple and legible annual calendar layout and its almost overly discreet look, the Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar comes in as one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024 for me by far.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
With the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, the maison reminds us why it’s often referred to as the watchmakers’ watchmaker. It features a tourbillon constructed on three axes, creating a unique kinematic effect which is a first for the maison, along with a perpetual calendar and a grande date. The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual really pushes the boundaries of what we can and should expect a watchmaker like Jaeger-LeCoultre to be able to make and subsequently produce. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is as brilliant as it is captivating.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
One could justifiably call the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” as one of those absolute halo pieces to come out of the German watchmaking atelier. The combination of two of the brand's most recognisable visceral elements in the Lumen dial guise and the Honeygold case material, paired with the absurdly complicated and genuinely brilliant Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon platform makes it one of those curtain-closing grails of Watches And Wonders 2024.
Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer
The brilliant Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is perhaps one of those unsung heroes of modern watchmaking. A complete and uncompromising emphasis on chronometrical performance makes for one of the most compelling concepts, irrespective of the many different guises it is available in. Originally launched in 2020, the Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer was deemed a fairly large piece, measuring 44mm across. But now, much to acclaim of the watch community collective, the Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is available in a 39mm size in either white or rose gold (with a blue or grey dial colour, respectively). An absolute, definitive yes from me.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar exemplifies Zenith's dedication to timeless elegance and horological precision. Encased in stainless steel, the watch pays homage to the brand's rich heritage with a classic design featuring a triple calendar complication. The day, date, and month functions are seamlessly integrated into the dial, providing both practicality and aesthetic balance. Driven by the legendary El Primero automatic movement, the Chronomaster Original ensures accurate timekeeping with a high-frequency beat. With its vintage-inspired design and sophisticated complications, this timepiece appeals to enthusiasts appreciating a blend of heritage and modern functionality within the Zenith Chronomaster collection.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum is another superb release that perhaps didn't get the attention it deserved. Encased in platinum with a matching material bracelet, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum boasts an openworked Blue Milano dial, complimenting the case and bracelet's high-grade shine. Absolutely lovely.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Anything that boasts the numbers that the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar does should and will have its placed solidified on the list of best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024, period. With a calendar accurate to 3,499, a 400-year gear for the recognition of irregular leap years, and a moon phase accurate for 45,000,000 years for both Northern and Southern hemispheres, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar is by far one of the maison's most interesting and complicated timepieces this side of the turn of the decade.
Renaud Tixier Monday
Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier have teamed up to create one of this year's most interesting feats of watchmaking in the Monday, which addresses one of seven fundamental principles of watchmaking in winding efficiency. What we have with the Monday is something that can be considered completely novel in a "dancing" micro-rotor. Within a very conservative exterior, lies an answer to a problem of inefficiency from the smaller size of a traditional micro rotor, more of which you can read about on Renaud Tixier's website. But in essence, it's as novel as it is ingenious. I really can't wait to see what Tuesday will look like.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
If you want to talk about shock value then the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is something that you really can't look past. Arguably one of the most interesting pieces to come out of the show, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is the perfect marriage of chronometry brilliance, horological innovation and thinking well and truly beyond the norm of watchmaking.
Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel
The tourbillon and carrousel are renowned mechanisms designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch’s movement, and Blancpain achieved a milestone in 2013 by uniting both in the Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel. Powered by Calibre 2322, this innovative wristwatch features a flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock, a flying carrousel at 6 o’clock, and a date display at 3 o’clock. The two regulators operate independently, with their rates averaged by a differential for exceptional precision, supported by a seven-day power reserve visible through the sapphire crystal case back. This year, the model returns in an elegant 44.6 mm 18 ct red gold case, complemented by a refined sunburst green dial that exudes both sophistication and subtlety.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine wins it for me, even over the 63-complication Berkley Grand Complication. The Collection Excellence Platine is one of my all-time favourite collections of watches from any maison, with the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine peaking in both material and technical departments. One of the key pieces of the show and one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Piaget made history with the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary, becoming the first and only watchmaker to offer a tourbillon in a case that measures only 2mm in thickness. This puts it at only .3mm thicker than Bulgari's latest record-breaking Finissimo, albeit where the Piaget can definitely lay claim to having the more complicated of the two.
Rolex Day-Date 40
The new Rolex Day-Date 40 reference 228235 features a lovely slate ombré dial with an Everose gold case, making it by far one of the more beautiful pieces released by Rolex at this year's Watches And Wonders showcase. Besides the obvious visual changes, not much else has changed internally, with the 228235 still powered by the 2015-made calibre 3255. Regardless though, a genuine showstopper the Rolex Day-Date 40 is without a doubt.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the latest iteration of its acclaimed Reverse Tribute Duoface Tourbillon. And for the first time, the model is available in stainless steel, paired with a beautiful sunray grey dial on the front face, while the reverse features a guilloché finish with a Clous de Paris motif, tended to by the meticulous hands at the Atelier des Métiers Rares™. The bridge alone required 232 lines of guilloché work to achieve that super fine finishing. The reverse side features a second time-zone, along with a day/night indicator. The stainless steel case measures 45.50mm long by 27.40mm wide, and sits at a very svelte 9.14mm in height. The focal point is that spectacular flying tourbillon carriage, of course. Jaeger-LeCoultre utilised ball bearings to suspend the carriage, reducing the thickness of the complication to a remarkably thin 3.90mm (and light - 0.5 grams). The drama continues with the S-shaped balance-spring as it spins around the aperture, where all 62 components can be admired.
Lederer Triple-Certified Observatory Chronometer
The new Lederer Observatory Chronometer CIC is set to undergo a rigorous evaluation by three prestigious observatories: Glashutte in Germany, Besançon in France, and Geneva in Switzerland. These renowned institutions, each known for their unique contributions to horology, will assess the watch’s timekeeping precision through their esteemed standards. Glashutte’s innovative movement testing, Besançon’s expertise in chronometry, and Geneva’s tradition of excellence provide a comprehensive validation that goes beyond standard COSC accuracy tests. This limited edition timepiece features a unique minute hand movement synchronized with a remontoire d’égalité, displayed on a special scale divided into 10-second intervals. The dial, adorned with the iconic "V" symbol and engraved geographical coordinates of the observatories, showcases a solid silver surface treated to a pure white finish. Entirely designed and crafted in-house, this new watch exemplifies Lederer’s dedication to horological craftsmanship and is available in a limited run of only eight pieces.
Piaget Polo 1979
The Piaget Polo 1979 is a tribute to the iconic timepiece originally introduced in 1979, blending timeless design with contemporary sophistication. Encased in gold, the watch features the distinctive cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet characteristic of the Polo collection. Its dial, adorned with a horizontal pattern reminiscent of a polo shirt texture, exudes sporty elegance and may incorporate additional complications such as chronograph or date functions. Powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, the Polo 1979 ensures precise timekeeping while exemplifying Piaget's commitment to craftsmanship and innovation. With its seamless fusion of heritage-inspired aesthetics and modern refinement, this timepiece epitomizes Piaget's legacy of luxury watchmaking, appealing to connoisseurs who appreciate both tradition and contemporary flair in horology.
Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02
Inspired by a super rare reference (5159BA) and added to a collection that was introduced some 4 years ago that seemingly dropped off the face of the earth, the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 is as novel and unique as it was when the original dropped some 60-odd years ago. Fans of the abstract haute horlogerie will rejoice, and I am too. It's taken a few days of looking and looking away, but I've come to the conclusion that I really like it. It's as un-Audemars Piguet as it is Audemars Piguet, with sharp clean lines, linear brushing and soft edges contrasted with acute angles, the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 is just about as out there as I can personally handle from the maison. In a good way.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
Now with a white dial, the iconic Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is a celebration of the contemporary approach of the maison to its most iconic timepiece. The white dial is, of course, the mainstay here. It features a lacquered finish that gives it a smooth and glossy surface, while everything is stock standard, per se. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional perhaps is best known amongst our fellow watch peers for that brilliant Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 3861, the latest generation movement to feature in a Moonwatch, and fortunately we are still able to see it through the open sapphire caseback. A refreshing take on what is ultimately one of the most important watches ever made.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184
Combining three of the most intricate complications of sound, precision and astronomy comes the Calibre 184. Add to that the immense art of Grand Feu enamelling and lacquring from the maison's Atelier des Métiers Rares™, and the end result is nothing less than a masterpiece. The Calibre 184 in itself contains 1,052 components and reportedly takes more than five months alone to assemble by a single master watchmaker. It is comprised of a spherical tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. The minute repeater, which lays claim to 7 patents, plays the Westminster melody and four hammers, rather than the usual two, and four gongs. The Gyrotourbillon is another work of art, with its 94 components weighing only 0.4 grams and measuring 8.80mm in diameter, it is the fifth and smallest Gyrotourbillon the maison has produced. The perpetual calendar requires no manual adjustment until the year 2,100 and can be set forward or backwards without risk of damaging the components. Beyond the incredible technical prowess of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184, the viscerals of this piece are quintessentially Jaeger-LeCoultre, with soft curves, exquisite finishings and textures found throughout.
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE Navy Blue
Ulysse Nardin introduces the Freak ONE Navy Blue, an impressive evolution in the iconic Freak collection. This avant-garde timepiece features a 44mm titanium case, coated in black DLC for durability and scratch resistance, complemented by a bezel made of sustainable Carbonium, derived from aerospace-grade recycled carbon fiber. The watch's standout feature is its unconventional display—the movement itself functions as the minute hand, rotating around the dial to indicate the time. It is powered by the innovative UN-240 automatic movement, which incorporates a silicon escapement for increased precision and reliability. This silicon technology, pioneered by Ulysse Nardin, is known for its resistance to magnetic fields and wear, enhancing the overall lifespan and accuracy of the watch. The watch offers a 90-hour power reserve, ensuring long-lasting performance without frequent winding. The deep navy blue color of the dial and accents pays homage to the brand’s maritime heritage, while the intricate design and engineering showcase Ulysse Nardin's expertise in horological innovation. With no conventional hands or crown, the Freak ONE Navy Blue continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking with a design that combines technical mastery and aesthetic boldness.
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT
In celebration of its 20th anniversary, Greubel Forsey unveils its 10th Fundamental Invention, the Nano Foudroyante EWT, a remarkable timepiece that showcases an innovative mechanism engineered at the nanojoule scale, resulting in a significant reduction in both component count and size. Measuring a compact 37.9mm, this watch features the world’s first perpetual Nano Foudroyante, combined with Greubel Forsey's inaugural flying tourbillon and a manual-wind flyback mechanism, all housed within a striking white gold and tantalum case, limited to just 11 pieces. Since the introduction of its first Fundamental Invention in 2004, Greubel Forsey has remained dedicated to advancing horological research and innovation, which is reflected in this groundbreaking design that redefines traditional watchmaking concepts. This leap in technology echoes the historic evolution of timekeeping devices, from large public clocks to wearable wristwatches, culminating in the current revolution of nanomechanics that Greubel Forsey is at the forefront of.
Tudor Black Bay
Tudor came into its own at Watches And Wonders 2024 with its latest iteration of the Black Bay. The new Master Chronometer certified Black Bay carries with it all of the attributes of being a staple in any collection. Priced roughly half of what its bigger brother is now priced at, the Black Bay presents tremendous value and accessibility, all the while well and truly being a genuinely comparable article. Hats off to one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date
The Seamaster Diver 300M, a staple of OMEGA’s ocean timepieces since 1993, continues its legacy with a new collection inspired by the vintage design of the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition featured in No Time To Die. Spotted earlier this year on OMEGA ambassador Daniel Craig at the Olympic Games Paris 2024, the collection has captivated watch enthusiasts worldwide. Departing from recent ceramic styles, the 42 mm models embrace a retro aesthetic with domed sapphire crystals and adventurous mesh bracelets reminiscent of the Bond watch. Four variations are available, including a stainless steel model with a black aluminium bezel and laser-engraved wave-pattern dial, and another with a titanium bezel and brushed PVD stainless steel dial. These watches are powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, offering precision, magnetic resistance, and a view of the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. With its iconic details, such as the helium escape valve and skeletonized hands, this collection cements the Diver 300M’s status as an enduring underwater classic.
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
The Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 is the technical flagship of Breguet's Marine collection, housed in a platinum case that highlights its complex Calibre 581DPE movement. This grand complication offers a mesmerizing blend of innovation and artistry, featuring three high complications: a running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon. The equation of time displays the variance between local and solar time, achieved through a cam linked to a feeler that drives the equation lever. It presents two minute hands—one with a luminescent tip for calendar time and the other with a gold-plated ring for solar time—enabling precise, instantaneous reading. The perpetual calendar function, with its anchor-shaped retrograde hand, tracks dates and leap years across a dark background with clear white markings for easy visibility. The tourbillon, first developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, incorporates a titanium cage and silicon balance spring to counteract gravity's effect on accuracy. A blued gauge provides power reserve information for the watch’s 80-hour capacity, while an engraved oscillating weight decorated with a wave pattern wraps around a chiseled depiction of the Royal Louis, symbolizing Breguet’s historical ties to naval navigation. Each timepiece’s exquisite guilloché engraving and hand-finishing transform it into a wearable work of art. The 43.9 mm platinum case, with a "wave" guilloché dial in black, evokes an ocean under moonlight, adorned with four precise hands and Roman numerals set amid luminescent details, creating a timeless blend of functionality and visual poetry.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”
A. Lange & Söhne continues to showcase its capabilities with the new Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition". This particular pieces continues to mark the Datograph's 25th anniversary following the release of the incredible Datograph Handwerkskunst only last week. The Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition” is a piece unique reference which will be sold to benefit charity. It comes in a white gold case with a matching white gold bracelet, along with a grey dial, black sub-dials and date window, a red chronograph seconds hand as well as an officer style (or hunter) caseback. The caseback is engraved with the Concours of Elegance logo, and if you flick it open then the brilliant L951.6 calibre will be displayed in all of its glory. We can expect pricing for the new Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition” to likely push into 7-figure territory.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst
A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Datograph Handwerkskunst, a special edition watch to mark the 25th anniversary of the iconic Datograph chronograph. Limited to just 25 pieces, this watch features a yellow gold case, a black rhodium-plated gold dial with intricate tremblage engraving, and a hand-finished L951.8 movement. The dial's design pays homage to the original 1999 model, blending neo-classical elements with elaborate artisanal techniques. Priced significantly higher than regular models, it exemplifies both technical mastery and exceptional craftsmanship.